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  • GLOSSARY

    Apparel

    Clothing that is made or purchased. Arm scythe Armhole (the part where the sleeve is sewn).

    Bespoke

    The art of making something entirely to the buyers preference and specification. Although commonly used to describe any custom item, bespoke is traditionally associated with tailoring.

    Blazer

    Casual jacket made from woolen cloth. Can be single or double breasted, originally navy in color it can now be brightly colored or striped.

    Black tie

    Black tie is a dress code for formal evening events, and is worn to many types of social functions. For a man, the major component is a jacket, known as a dinner jacket (in the Commonwealth) or tuxedo (mainly in the United States), which is usually black but is sometimes seen in other colors.

    Boutonnière

    A boutonnière is a floral decoration worn on jacket lapel by men, typically a single flower or bud.

    Button Hole

    Button Hole – The buttonhole is intended to hold a boutonnière, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. To hold the flower properly, a loop is fixed to the back of the lapel.

    Cashmere

    Cashmere wool, usually simply known as cashmere, is a fiber obtained from Cashmere and other types of goats. Cashmere is fine in texture, and strong, light, and soft. Garments made from it provide excellent insulation.

    Crombie

    Crombie British fashion company, which produces high-end clothing and accessories. It's most famous for its luxury coats . The word ‘Crombie’ is sometimes used to refer to coats produced in the style of Crombie’s most famous three-quarter length (usually wool) overcoats.

    Cummerbund

    A cummerbund is a broad waist sash, usually pleated, which is often worn with single-breasted dinner jackets (or tuxedos). The modern use of the cummerbund is as a component of the semi-formal black tie dress code.

    Double breasted

    double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two, parallel columns of buttons or snaps; by contrast, a single-breasted coat has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons. In most modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other functional. The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, are either decorative (non-functional) or functional, allowing the overlap to fasten reversibly, right lapel over left lapel. To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner-button, called the jigger, is usually added to parallel-fasten the over-lapped layers together from the inside.

    Duffel Coat

    A duffle coat, or duffel coat, is a coat made from duffle, a coarse, thick, woollen material.

    French Cuff

    A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms.

    Hacking pocket

    These jacket pockets are angled to allow access when riding a horse. Often found on jackets with a single vent at the back.

    Harris Tweed

    Harris Tweed is a luxury cloth that has been handwoven by the islanders on the Isles of Harris, Lewis, Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, using local wool.

    Herringbone

    Herringbone describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish. Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear. Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

    Houndstooth

    The traditional houndstooth check is made with alternating bands of four dark and four light threads in both warp and filling or weft woven in a simple 2:2 twill, two over – two under the warp, advancing one thread each pass.

    Khakis

    khakis come in all ranges of colors and the term refers more to the particular design or cut of the pants/trousers. In this context, “Khakis” have become popular as business casual pants/trousers, and includes other cuts and fabric types (such as chinos).

    Linen

    Textiles in a linen-weave texture, even when made of cotton, hemp and other non-flax fibers are also loosely referred to as “linen”. Such fabrics generally have their own specific names other than linen; for example, fine cotton yarn in a linen-style weave is called Madapolam.

    Pinstripe

    Pin stripes are a pattern of very thin stripes running in parallel found in cloth. The pin-striped suit has become associated with conservative business attire, although many designers now produce fashionable pin-stripe patterns for fashion-conscious consumers.

    Sartorial

    relating to a tailor or to tailoring

    Single breasted jacket

    single-breasted refers to a coat, jacket or similar garment having one column of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric. In contrast, a double-breasted coat has a wider overlap and two parallel rows of buttons. Single-breasted suit jackets and blazers typically have two or three buttons (jackets with one or four buttons exist, but are not common), and a notch lapel. However, from the 1930s onwards, peaked lapels, often on a single button jacket, have been variably in fashion, and this is now a classic, though slightly unusual, look. The width of the lapels is one of the most changeable aspects of the jacket, and narrow peak lapels on single-breasted jackets became popular during the 2000s.

    Tailor

    One that makes, repairs, and alters garments such as suits, coats, and dresses. To make (a garment), especially to specific requirements or measurements.

    Ticket pocket

    The ticket pocket is a secondary, smaller pocket that resides above the outer right pocket. As the name suggests its function is to hold tube or train tickets. Not seen for a long time, these elegant additions have had a resurgence over the past few years.

    Waist coat

    A waistcoat is a sleeveless upper-body garment worn over a dress shirt and necktie (if applicable) and below a coat as a part of most men’s formal wear, and as the third piece of the three-piece male business suit.

    White tie

    The most formal evening dress code in Western fashion. It is worn to ceremonial occasions such as state dinners in some countries, as well as to very formal balls and evening weddings. The chief components for men are the black dress coat commonly known as an evening tailcoat, white bow tie, white waistcoat and starched wing collar shirt, while women wear a suitable dress for the occasion, such as a bouffant gown.